Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples
26.03.2020
Building a Cedar Strip Canoe
Building my first Cedar Strip Canoe. A couple years ago I took my two oldest children to nearby Hagg lake for their first fishing trip. They were bored after about 30 minutes, so we walked over to a little hut and Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples rented a canoe. but using a combination of latex hose and band clamps I was able to glue about four strips at a time without any. Feb 12, �� The staples holding the planks to the frame can then be taken out without destroying the shape since Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples the strips will be securely held together by the epoxy. At this stage, the canoe will have taken shape and all that will be left is waterproofing the hull and making the final touches. Building a canoe by stapling the wood strips onto the canoe forms will Building Canoe A Staples Cedar Strip Without leave tiny pinhole marks in your woodstrips. It is possible to build a cedarstrip canoe without using staples. This video shows you one way how to do it. Stripping the Bottom of the Hull.
Abstract:
My father spotless it up as well as realised it was red as well as yellow pine. Afterwards an glorious cloak of camoe would finish off a H2O proofing. Regularly recollect which sandy dirt is most appropriate than clay soil. Not only does it support stop bursting a wooden a place a nails bear (since they have been Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples so tighten to a corner of a wooden), get ready for a tangible building a cedar strip canoe without staples patio.
When the glue between the strips sets that is all she wrote and the shape is the shape, so it is important to make sure when Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples you put her to bed to dry it is in the shape you want it to be. The pictures you see here should give you a good idea of different ways to strap here down to dry. You will find that different situations require different strategies.
The first and easiest option is shown to the left. It is a simple block with a notch cut into it and a spring clamp to hold down the block. When there are easy going curves and the strips are laying flat against the forms, this method takes Strip Canoe Without Staples A Cedar Strip Canoe Kits Minnesota Net Building Cedar seconds to do and works well. If you find that as you come to the turn of the hull the strips want to pull away from the hull, don't panic, this is normal. If the last three strips you laid want to pull away, then it Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Cedar Without Strip A Building Staples Canoe is time to tie her down and give it a chance to dry in place.
When this happens, you will need more than just a clamping block. If you look to the right you can see a series of bungee chords tightly wrapped around the hull. This Cedar Building Staples Without Strip A Canoe Building A Cedar Strip Staples Canoe Without Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples is easier with another set of hands but it is not necesary.
Because you don't know when you will be stopping it is unlikely you will have the perfect length bungee at hand. A box of screws and an electric screw gun will make quick work Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Strip Canoe Without Staples Cedar Building A A Canoe Staples Strip Building Cedar Without Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples of making whatever size bungee you have work. Notice in the picture the criss cross pattern of the bungees. This ensures the strips follow along the shape of the forms. It is very very important to make sure that the bungees are set at the forms. If you set the bungees between the forms, there is a high probability that you will draw the hull in farther than it should be and mishapen the boat.
You want the forms pushing back on the bungees to prevent this from happening. Simply set one screw on the bottom of the form or on the strongback, wrap the bungee around the form and pull tight to a location where another screw can go.
If you are working alone you will have to mark it with a pencil and set a screw. If you Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Cedar A Staples Strip Without Building Canoe Strip Building Cedar Without Canoe A Staples have and extra pair of hands your helper can set a screw while you hold the bungee. There are times when the strips will not want to sit down without you holding them down. The trick here is to hold it down without having to use your Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Strip Staples Building Without Cedar Canoe A hand. I have found that the best way to do this is with a strategically placed block.
In the picture to the left you can see that bungees have been placed around the form and a block is placed under the bungee over the top of a Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples very uncooperative strip. In a very uncooperative place there is a last resort. It is not often that you need to do this but it may occur a couple of times during the stripping of a hull. Take one of your glue blocks and drill a small hole in it to accept a paneling nail and nail the strip into place untill the glue dries.
Althought this sounds like it defeats the entire purpose of what we are doing here you need to keep perspective. Your boat likely has anywhere from to feet of Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Strip Canoe Staples Building A Cedar Without strips on it and a couple of pin holes are only going to be noticed by you. And trust me, you won't notice them after the hull is done.
The reson for having the block to nail into is for ease of taking the nail out. There will be times when the strips start to wander from the hull a bit but you want to keep stripping. In this event you have a decision to make.
Evaluate how much presure it would take to keep the strips down. If light pressure takes care Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples of the problem then this is an easy one to take care of.
Take a look at the picture on the right. This is just a 1" cutting off of a 2 by 4 with a dab of hot glue on the end and pressed up against Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Cedar Building Without Canoe Strip A Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples the strips from the inside of the hull. Once the glue takes hold, push the strips tight to the form and screw the block to the form. This will pull the strips tight to the form and give you a chance to keep on stirpping.
Just remember Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples to take these out before you pop the forms out to keep from tearing at the wood. In fact if you use this method, it is likely that you will only be putting a few more strips on before you stop for the day, so the next Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples time you come back to the shop and pull off the bungees, that would be a good time to get this block as well.
The MDF forms are attached to squared hardwood blocks using nuts and bolts, and the blocks are clamped to the strongback. Make sure Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Strip Cedar Canoe Without Staples Building A that the forms are all smooth, level and properly spaced and aligned with each other. I marked lines at one-foot intervals on the strongback; the faces of the forms are aligned with these lines.
A file and sanding block can quickly smooth out any irregularities in the Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples edges of the forms. In one case, I cut too far when cutting out the form and had to build it back up using a putty wood filler.
Because the strongback is straight and level, I used it as a reference to check the depth of Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Without Strip A Cedar Staples Building Canoe the forms, measuring from the surface of the strongback to the centerline on the forms to make sure they are in the correct position. Once the edges are ready and everything is aligned, apply tape to the edges of the forms to prevent them from gluing to Building Staples Strip Without Canoe Cedar A and damaging your canoe's interior; at first I was tempted to use wax, then realized that it might interfere with the epoxy to be applied later.
The horizontal lines on the forms are the theoretical waterline. Some people begin by installing strips parallel to this line. Others Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples just start at the sheer line and build from there. The vertical lines are the centerline -- useful for aligning the forms and establishing the meeting lines for the bottom strips later on.
It could help to elevate the forms another inch or two more from Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples the strongback. It sometimes seemed a little tight or awkward at the ends during assembly and fiberglassing.
Steamer: You can make a steamer using a camping stove, large pot with a lid, some simple fittings, flexible metal pipe, and 4" diameter PVC or ABS pipe don't Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples seal it up tight, or you will be making a very dangerous steam bomb. The hot plates sold at common retail stores do not provide enough heat to generate sufficient steam. You need either a gas source or a commercial hot plate. Drill holes through the 4" Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples pipe and insert suspension wires so that the boards aren't resting in a pool of water.
I used end caps to retain some steam; these were drilled for safety. Many strip canoes have hardwood stems on the ends to which the upcoming cedar strips are attached.Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples
I used teak for my hardwood trim pieces, including the stems. Yes, teak is heavy, but it is basically water and weatherproof, and I like how it looks with the cedar; most makers recommend ash and lighter hardwoods. It is helpful to have at least one extra Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Strip Without Staples Canoe Cedar Building Without A Cedar Staples Canoe Strip sacrificial strip on the outside of this bend, as the outermost strip tends to tear out and get damaged by the C-clamps.
Once the pieces cool and dry, they are then glued together and re-clamped, creating a laminated stem. Some people recommend just using a heat gun Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Strip Staples A Without Cedar Canoe Building instead of steam; I didn't try it, but did see pictures of some pretty sharp bends made in individual strips with hot air only. I don't know how well it would work if attempting to bend multiple strips at the same time. Speaking of clamps: Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Cedar Strip A Canoe Staples Without Building I decided to make the canoe myself after seeing how much it would cost to buy one.
The materials for a strip canoe are in the same range of a decent, new synthetic canoe If cost is an important factor, and you don't already have most Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples of the accessory tools and supplies, you may be better off if you just go out and purchase a finished canoe direct from a professional maker, a retail store, or secondhand.
My general materials costs came out approximately as follows including shipping :. The strongback can be reused A Building Without Canoe Staples Strip Cedar for other projects. The forms and plans have no future utility unless you plan to make another canoe of the same design and some designers of commercial plans will ask you not to do this without paying for another set of plans.
You can also acquire everything as a kit less the strongback for about twice the cost of the raw materials. But if you have the tooling to make the strips and a good source for lumber, you can save some serious money by making them yourself. Other things like the car Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples rack, life jackets, lines, etc. And then there is beer, of course. Some talk as if making a cedar strip canoe requires hardly any tools and anyone can do it.
I beg to differ. Anyone can replace a radiator too; but having experience, skill and the right Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples tools are the difference between a half-hour job done right the first time, and three days of torture, frustration, and an eventual tow to the nearby shop to complete a botched attempt. Experience, skill and the right tools and a little luck can make anything look easy. Considerable Building A Cedar Strip Canoe WitBuilding A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples hout Staples time, space, tooling and patience are all necessary to complete a strip canoe; the skills are similar to, but not exactly the same as, basic hardwood furniture construction.
Similar principles apply. The truth is that, since starting this, many more people told me stories about half Without Cedar A Strip Staples Canoe Building finished disappointments than completed seaworthy beauties. Getting a kit can save some time and avoid some initial fabrication problems for a price, but even if you are building from prefabricated strips, you may still need at least the following tools and supplies in addition to the above :.Without Building Staples Cedar Canoe A Strip A Without Cedar Staples Canoe Building Strip Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples
In addition to your machining space, you need a clear, sheltered, dry, level space at least 10' x 20' for canoe assembly; the larger, the better. And you need a good 40' clear path to make the strips. In other words, this is a much larger project Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples than it may appear to be at first.
But back to the stems: Some designs have no stems, and the wood strips overlap and glue to each other at the ends. Some have only an inner stem, to which the ends of the strips attach.
Some have Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples an inner and an outer stem, where the outer stem acts as a strengthening end cap to the boat. I made the Winisk with the inner and outer stems. I think, though, that the inner stem design should be altered so that it flares out and is Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples slightly longer than the outer stem along the keel line. As it is designed, its interior end is a focal point for routine and impact stress, and there is not much mechanical strength at that point; there is little more than a butt joint between the cedar Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples strips and the stem as it approaches the end, held together, effectively, by the epoxy and fiberglass laminations.
By lengthening and flaring it, the strips have more material to grab and hold onto at that stress point. Obviously, this is just my opinion; I'm sure the designer has a good argument for his approach. The inner stem needs to be beveled to match the angle of incoming cedar strips.
I roughed the bevel in advance with a small hand plane, then finalized the angle with the inner stem mounted in position on the Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Cedar Without Building Staples A Strip Canoe forms. To do this I used a straight hardwood stick about 2 inches wide, an inch thick, and 16 inches long with sandpaper wrapped tightly around one end. Use the stick as a sanding block against the stem, doing a few inches at a time, installing cedar Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples strips, sanding a few more inches, etc.
Keep one end against the nearest form and the sandpapered end against the stem, and the entire stick oriented in the same direction as the upcoming cedar strips. I already had all of the needed major tools, and a Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Strip Staples Cedar Without A Building Canoe lot of large clamps that are good for furniture making, but not for boat work.
I also have accounts with hardwood suppliers, so that end was covered. I didn't want to have to scarf-joint together a bunch of cedar strips, so I sought 18' clear cedar Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples boards, but even in "clear cedar," only about one in ten boards was clear enough to work.
Though knots can be acceptable and attractive in fine furniture, they create unacceptable weak points in long strips that have to bend and twist. Any strip or rail with a Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples knot in it is usually scrap. Anyway, after a lot of sorting, I took home seven 1 x 6 x 18' cedar boards. The project also required the purchase of about 80 additional assorted small clamps -- about half of which were less expensive spring clamps. But Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples it does add up.
I don't have room in my shop for the tools and the canoe, so the canoe was built just in front of my garage under a temporary tent until some local city personnel freaked out. The more uniform your strips, the tighter Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples you can fit them together and to the curvature of the forms, the better the whole project will go. Fabricating the strips took one pass through the bandsaw, and two passes through the router per strip. That all adds up to about passes for one canoe. I Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples don't care for repetitive, mindless, time-consuming tasks yes, I know that these make up most of one's life.
If I make more canoes, I'm planning on making a bandsaw attachment that will complete a precise strip in one pass. Glue vs. Epoxy: Epoxy and A Strip Cedar Without Canoe Staples Building Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples similar chemicals are the obvious choices for fiberglass lamination, but for general construction they aren't the only or even the best options. If you have a smooth, tight, wood-to-wood mating surface and can apply good pressure to the joint, common wood glue PVA has strength similar Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples to and is easier to work with than epoxy.
However, wood glue has very little structural strength. That is, though it can bond two close surfaces together well, it does not have much strength in and of itself -- it isn't good for irregular joints or gaps where strength may be critical.
Also, epoxy requires little or no clamping pressure; in fact, too much clamping pressure can be a bad thing especially with epoxy. But when properly applied, either adhesive can create a joint that exceeds the strength of the surrounding wood.
Being Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Without Cedar Building Staples Strip Canoe A Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples used to working with wood glues, I'm used to short clamp times and having joints be able to take a little stress within an hour of assembly.
I got surprised more than once on this project when epoxied joints began to pull apart under the slightest Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples stress, even after setting for a several hours. But once completely cured, they seemed stronger than similar wood glue joints, are more resistant to water, and have good gap-filling properties. Also, many epoxies can be applied in temperatures approaching freezing whereas wood glue loses effectiveness under about Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples 60 degrees. For some areas like the stem laminations and the biscuit joint to bookmatch the endcaps I used urethane glue.
Choosing Epoxy: I don't have much personal experience using or testing various epoxies. I went with System 3 because independent third parties had done Staples Strip Canoe Cedar A Without Building Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples extensive real weather testing with it and several other marine epoxies. It wasn't necessarily the best in every category -- each epoxy has its own strength or weakness -- but overall, System 3 tended to do equal or better than most others that he tested.
There Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Staples Building Without Strip Canoe A Cedar Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples are less expensive options that I might try next time. With the inner stems in place on the forms, begin gluing the prepared strips to each other and the stems.
Some makers include accent strips and designs of various colors using different woods or by applying stains Without Canoe Staples Building Strip Cedar A Strip Staples A Cedar Canoe Building Without before fiberglassing.
I made no attempt to book match the colors from one side to the other, but did try to keep like-colored boards close together. This goes a lot faster if you use staples, but as an experienced woodworker used to making very nice pieces, I Strip A Canoe Without Staples Building Cedar Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Staples Building A Cedar Without Strip Canoe just can't bring myself to put staples into a visible face; that's just not right!
The stapleless method is painfully slow, but using a combination of latex hose and band clamps I was able to glue about four strips at a time without any staples. The Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples band clamps keep the strips tight to the curvature of the forms, and the latex bands provide the edge pressure between the strips; the substantial inconvenience of this method is it requires additional space in front of the canoe to thread strips in under the band Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Cedar Building Canoe Without Strip Staples A Staples Canoe Cedar Building A Strip Without clamps.
The latex hoses are tied to one jaw of a spring clamp; the clamp can be attached anywhere along the bottom edge of the forms, allowing for easy adjustment of pressure amplitude and direction. Thread four strips into place.
Squeeze glue into the meeting lines. Pull Cedar Strip Canoe Staples Without Building A Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples the remaining bands over and tighten all bands. Wear eye protection when working with these; more than one slipped while tightening and nailed me in the face.
I didn't think of using the band clamps until about half way into stripping; the result is that my Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples initial strips didn't follow the curvature of the forms as closely as I'd have liked. Groups tended to cup slightly. Once the glue sets, release the latex bands and glue up the next set.
I didn't mind being generous sloppy with the glue, because Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples A Canoe Staples Strip Cedar Without Building wood glue is cheap and I have decent tools for knocking it off later; actually a putty knife or hand plane each work great and the latter is a necessity for rapid fairing of the outside hull.
Common scrapers used for hardwood work are not useful here, Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples because the soft cedar just tears out. I did put tacks in the sheerline strips, since those would be covered by rails, anyway. Gluing the strips went rapidly until I reached the bilge area, where there is a significant twist in the boards. You can see in Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples the first image, below, that the latest strip starts out almost vertical at the stem, twists to almost horizontal in the middle, and then back to vertical at the other end.
The latex hose is not strong enough to support that kind of twisting; it became difficult Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples to do more than one or two strips at a time until I rounded the bend. Set it, glue it, clamp it into place, wait for the glue to set up enough to hold the twist, etc. Once you make it "around the bend," filling in one Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples side of the bottom went quickly. Glue the boards in to overlap the center line marked on the forms at the beginning. Once one side is complete, cut them back flush with the center line.
Then begin installing the boards on the other side. This is Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples much more tedious since each piece must be hand-fit, one at a time, to the boards already installed. This obviously isn't the only way to fill in the floor. I've seen some real creative approaches but wanted to keep it simple for my first go. Strip Without A Canoe Staples Strip Cedar BuildinCedar Building Strip Canoe Staples Without A Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples g installation becomes increasingly-frustrating and profanity-laden as you approach the final few strips. The last two or three boards were quite difficult to put in; I had to dig pretty deep into my bag of tricks to make it work out nicely.
In this case, using a Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples razor knife, I cut half of the concave groove from the last installed strip, pressed the final strips into place, tapped it a few times with a soft-face mallet, then glued the removed edge back in. Now, with the fiberglass and epoxy over it, you can't Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples tell how it was done.
No doubt the pro-builders have better approaches. Cedar dust was generously mixed in this first coat so as to fill any minor cracks between the strips. You and any helpers should be wearing a full face respirator any time you are sanding Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples cedar or epoxy and should keep it on for a considerable time afterward, at least until the air in the room has completely changed several times over! For this and other reasons it is often easiest to do all major sanding outside.
Fiberglassing: It is very important Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples that the fiberglass sheet be taut, smooth, and in good contact with the surface of the boat. My primary mistake has been not having the sheet pulled taut; this is most difficult when doing the inside due to the concave shape.
That pushes excess fabric out and Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples away from the middle. Otherwise, you'll end up with wrinkles and ripples.
Unevenness in the fabric tension creates areas where the epoxy can collect and lift the fabric slightly relative to the surrounding plane. This isn't immediately evident while squeegeeing out, and happens slowly over Building Staples A Strip Cedar Without Canoe the following hours. Also, don't use any more epoxy than is absolutely necessary; any excess is just going to cause problems and make more sanding for the final finish.
I used System Three silvertip laminating epoxy with slow hardener for most applications. You can also use the fast hardener if you don't wait too long more than a few hours between applications. With the slow hardener I was able to wait up to days between applications if necessary without requiring any sanding.
Pour it on and spread it generously. Then squeegee it Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples out once it begins to gel. Either hardener gave me about 30 minutes of working time before beginning to stiffen that was at about 70 degrees.
A clean squeegee is best for the initial application; later applications go faster with a roller the roller will stick to, Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples pick up and carry the cloth if used on the first coat. Some have suggested using a thinner epoxy like System Three ClearCoat for the first application. Also, when using a roller, make sure it is a lintless foam roller. I made the mistake on my first Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples fill-coat attempt of using a common paint roller, which left lint fuzzies all through the epoxy coating.
Also, you often have to follow the roller with a bristle or foam brush to release bubbles created by the roller. I had weird results applying epoxy to trim Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples one cold, late evening. It was a follow-up coat and the underlying coat was still tacky. The next day it didn't have the usual glossy clear appearance, but a matte, crackly look.
A friend told me that he thought it got down to freezing later that Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples night. Just to be safe I sanded it down and applied another coat. Some resources -- System Three in particular -- suggest not doing the initial epoxy-on-fiberglass coat while the temperature is increasing, as this may cause air expansion in the wood and subsequent bubbles the exception Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples being if you've already thoroughly sealed the wood.
Others purposefully increase the temperature in the room after application to try to accelerate curing while others reduce to the temperature to avoid bubbles. Some suggest avoiding applying any epoxy if you anticipate heavy, condensing humidity before the Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples epoxy will substantially cure. Silvertip epoxy will blush turn whitish if exposed to moisture before it has set firm.
Some others need a substantial amount of time -- days or weeks -- before exposure. I ran into problems when the wind kicked up while applying a final epoxy coat outdoors, which blew dust and chips onto the surface of the boat it wasn't a big deal, as I still had some sanding to do.
In any event, keep an eye on it for at least an hour after the first epoxy coat on Without Strip Canoe Staples Building Cedar A Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples the fiberglass or you may be sorry. My first attempt at fiberglassing went really well We were happy with how it looked, and so went to lunch. When I returned, bubbles had appeared all over the place, and the fiberglass had ripples all through it.
It looked Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples horrible, and the epoxy was too-far cured to do anything about it. If there were just a handful of bubbles, some recommend slitting them with a razor or injecting epoxy directly into them with a needle.
Because there were so many, I sanded it all down, applied A Without Staples Building Strip Canoe Cedar Cedar Strip Without Canoe A Building Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples another sheet which went much better , and then a few filler coats. The result was a glossy egg-shell-texture feel. It will be sanded again later to get a smooth surface. That first epoxy-on-fiberglass application took a lot of epoxy; about 10 cups of resin and 5 of Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples hardener if I recall two batches of half that size.
This was all spread on, and about half of that actually ended up in the trash because it came back off during the squeegee process. At times I attempted to reuse the epoxy instead of making more. That Cedar Staples Canoe Without A Strip Building was a mistake. Once applied, it picks up a lot of microscopic airbubbles from the fiberglass "entrained" air. If you look really closely -- and you probably wouldn't notice it unless it was pointed out -- you can see areas on my finish that look Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples a little lighter, less clear, than nearby ones.
That is a result of this reused epoxy. This isn't a problem on the filler coats, which take much less epoxy than the first coat. Perhaps a third as much.
But that first epoxy-on-fiberglass coating is a critical, Building A Cedar Strip Canoe Without Staples don't skimp and don't mess around, step. It was painful to see that much epoxy get squeegeed off and dumped out, but I don't see a better solution unless you have a vacuum bell, very slow setting epoxy, and don't mind debubbling it.
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